Our contributions to the savory side of the kitchen are often overlooked. Besides the obvious- molds, silpats, scales, 'magic powders'- we've also produced an ongoing rotation of various dough, tuiles, chips, and vehicles that seem better suited to our training and sensibility.
One of the best- and simplest- of these is what we call pate croustade. This egg-flour-butter dough is a workhorse whose origin is fairly murky; one claim is that it survives from Chef's days with Robuchon, but I'm not certain of that. It is a joy to work with, and results in a super thin, delicate base of which we've done quite a few variations. It currently serves as a tart and taco-like shell for savory canapes.
I've been thinking lately about adjusting it ever so slightly to work better in a sweet application; maybe a tiny bit of sugar or even replacing the water with something else entirely or switching out the fat. I'm becoming increasingly more aware of the most basic components, recipes, and ratios where such a subtle substitution could result in something quite special. Some things just don't need over-thinking...
Download: Pate Croustade-Workbook 29.3.09
I had the same realization just the other day with pate choux...switching the milk for stock, butter for duck fat, and some chickpea flour in the mix, it really opened my eyes to just how far recipe modification can go. In my eyes, that is what is so great about tried and true recipes.
Posted by: Russ | April 17, 2009 at 11:06 PM
Pate choux is a great example. Hyper-versatile. I've had success with simple spritz or tuile cookie ratios as well.
Posted by: Jeff | April 18, 2009 at 03:53 AM
Lord knows we've utilized quite a few of your recipes in savory app's. From your pain de genes to ice cream and sorbet bases to meringues and even your gremolata from the Miami event.
I just wish I had this one when I did this http://chadzilla.typepad.com/chadzilla/2009/04/humble-pie.html.
Posted by: chad | April 18, 2009 at 09:38 PM