Spice

 

Back when I was in Thailand last September, I was able to get a brief market tour from an expat writer who was (and still is) spending time traveling through Southeast Asia. We had discussed a special peppercorn grown in neighboring Cambodia, which I had never heard of, and which I had promptly forgotten about. That is until a tiny package arrived the other day, from Mari, through a mutual friend: securely encased in bubble wrap was my first taste of Kampot pepper.

    

 

There have been recent efforts to revive the cultivation and export of this once highly regarded peppercorn, grown in the southern province nestled between Thailand and Vietnam. Though it thrived under French colonialism, it stands to reason that this industry was all but wiped out as result of the civil turmoil within Cambodia that began in the 1970s. And as inferior pepper is often falsely sold under the name, Kampot pepper farmers are now working to achieve a government sponsored geographic appellation status.

    

Apart from the occasional garnish, it's been awhile since I've used peppercorn as a flavor. I'd like to play around with infusing different amounts for longer or shorter periods, at higher or lower temperatures. Gently infused into an ice cream base, I was surprised how little of the heat came through, but rather a sweet fruitiness that I didn't expect.

The ginger-candied raspberries came from an idea I'd seen several years ago in a dish by Jean-Phillipe Maury: fresh raspberries are macerated in sugar, lemon and sliced ginger, then heated slightly. The fruit maintains it's integrity while taking on the subtle heat of the ginger.

And most chefs seem to be rigidly split over the idea of raspberry paired with chocolate. I can't say that I claim a passionate opinion either way; it makes sense, however, with the spice involved, that it would work here in both a complimentary and contrasting way.

Download: Kampot Peppercorn Ice Cream-Workbook 10.3.09

Download: Ginger Candied Raspberries-Workbook 10.3.09

   

Comments

[Paul]

Hi Michael

I am currently cooking in Bangkok, but before that I was cooking in Siem Reap Cambodia for nearly four years. I am sure that the peppercorns you received were nice.

But.

If you are in anyway able to source Mr Kuratas pepper......well all I can say is that his products are a completely different beast.

His Dry "Ripe" Pepper is something that only he does. It is insanely good and I am yet to see anything else like it. I miss working with it.

When you have some free time try to rummage around his very confusing website(s).

http://www.ksline-cambodia.com/Frame/LINEUP01.htm

http://www.ksline-cambodia.com/

http://plaza.rakuten.co.jp/ksline/

He is a touch eccentric but you would have to be to grow some of the worlds best peppercorns in Cambodia.

Drop him a line you never know what might turn up in the mail.

Thanks for the continuing inspiration.

Cheers

Paul