It’s probably been at least a year and a half now since we started tinkering with our own version of gummy candies and starch molding. Of course, it was right about the time Sam was doing his various alcohol ‘bears’- including absinthe, sambuca, and amaro, and at least once, there was the infamous ‘whiskey dick’. We didn’t really want to tread on his territory, so apart from playing with starch molded fish and the like, we shelved the idea.
I sat in on a hydrocolloid demo at ICE a couple weeks ago, featuring George Mendes, Tim Koerner and Anthony Caratozzolo, as well as Mr. Mason, who blew through his repertoire of cold oil spherification, soft chocolate set with carrageenan, gellan films, and warm custards made possible with methylcellulose. The gummy bears just kind of came up in conversation, reminding me that I hadn’t thought about them in many months.
Our first test was with Pernod, a little softer and less chewy than the commercial candy we all know; we didn’t factor the blooming water into Sam’s formula (dosing gelatin at 25% of the total), nor is there the high enough sugar content to contribute much texture. And though we’ve taken a break from pearls and caviars and such, we still keep some cold oil in the walk-in, so I dropped the last few cc’s of Pernod gel into the oil to produce a nice transparent pearl.
From there, I wanted to see if they would float in water; they didn’t, but I’d love to try floating them in a slightly more viscous fluid. And then the general idea of suspension led to the thought of floating such pearls into a clear gummy. Below are basil and strawberry gummy pearls dropped into a clear gel, and strips inlaid with raspberry. We went for a firmer texture using 25% gelatin, and along with some sugar we also added a small amount of citric acid. The technique can certainly be refined, but it was a cool starting point.
Download: Pernod Gummy-Workbook 27.7.09
Both are gorgueous. I love the film... it looks impossible.
Posted by: cory | July 27, 2009 at 10:51 PM
Chef, I am just curious... is the texture of this gum more chewy than konnyaku jelly?
Posted by: Jin | July 27, 2009 at 11:47 PM
Hello Chef Laiskonis, every one was scared that you had abandoned your blog!!! Welcome back.
I have a question: Is it in your plan to write a Professional Pastry Chef Book? Something really professional,for Pastry Chefs and co. and not a book for "home cooking".
I will be the first one to buy a copy!
Posted by: antonino allegra | July 30, 2009 at 07:37 AM
I'm with Antonino on the book. A Michael Laiskonis book would be the coolest thing since the Johnny Iuzzini book.
Posted by: LarryP | July 31, 2009 at 12:46 PM
Well, I hope better than the Iuzzini book.... I bought it and got it send it to Australia while I was there.......
Recipes are cool but i was expecting a book for Pro, but it is in between Pro and home pastry... Please Chef Michael, do it for us, pastry chefs around the world...
Posted by: antonino allegra | August 01, 2009 at 10:57 AM
Incrivel ... i like that. você tem um blog bonito, fotos incríveis. Eu amei! realmente. Eu sou brasileiro. Parabéns ...
Posted by: Luan | September 12, 2009 at 10:00 AM