Covers

 

I started this second blog on January 1^st, 2009 as a way to document our daily work in the kitchen. It just seemed like a cool way to kick off the year, another outlet apart from the other thing I have going. I had no grandiose plans at the beginning, but I quickly realized how punk rock it would have been to post every day for a year. Of course, that was a huge challenge that I didn’t even come close to meeting, but I’m proud of what we put up here, and I know by the traffic it sees that it remains a useful resource for people.

 

I could certainly continue on with this basic concept forever, but I like the idea of shaking things up a bit. I realized recently that my library of books, the filing cabinets full of recipes and notes, all the sites and blogs bookmarked on my computer… They are all sadly under-utilized. I realized that the way I work has become insular in a way, that although my repertoire is vast enough, I’ve begun plagiarizing myself, simply mixing and matching old components in new ways. Or it’s the opposite, where we find ourselves attempting to create something out of thin air. I’ve lost that sense of excitement that a young cook has when browsing a new cookbook or magazine. The new is always exciting, but so too is re-discovering something from the past.

 

 

So I propose a new idea for the Workbook. I’ve always been quick to offer due credit to my inspiration in the past. But I think it would be cool to start a series of posts where I blatantly ‘rip-off’ those dishes and chefs that turn me on: the pastry equivalent of the cover song.  It might be a random bit that I pull out of the mountain of material disguised as my bookshelf, or it might be something I saw or tasted from someone that I think you should know about. Not exactly a Julie/Julia kind of thing, but more about the process of discovery, the interpretation, the learning experience, and of course, the homage.

 

I can’t promise a year’s worth of this, nor should it be assumed that the intention is to add the results to our menu. I may share the recipes, I may not. Rather, like any good cover song, it’s simply about the joy of playing someone else’s riff. I get to sift through all my stuff, and it’s a practical way to share it all with my staff as well. Like any good cover song, there’s an element of surprise. Who knows what I might lay on you, and what unexpected source it came from.  Like any good cover song, it’s paying respect to the original, and hopefully, introducing the original to someone who might not hear it otherwise.

 

 

Thanks, as always, for checking in.

 

 

Comments

[Jeffje]

I've thought before about desserts in musical terms.
What distinguishes a cover from a remix when it comes to food?

[Michael Laiskonis]

Jeffje,

Hmmm. Technically, a 'remix' merely manipulates the source material, and usually implies a narrow 'electronic' interpretation. I guess that might apply to cooking in some way. But in the strictest sense, that would mean me coming over to your house, and rearranging the dinner you've already prepared. Interesting? Perhaps. What might that kind of job pay?

I guess I look at a 'cover' as picking up your own instrument and playing the notes, faithful as it may or may not be the original.

And what of 'sampling'? Don't we already do that to some degree? If we were to take a single component from Johnny or Alex or Sam or Pierre or Albert and add it to our own composition? And does it make a difference how obscure the source material is? Is there more 'street cred' in hiding the hook? Interesting.

Is there a culinary version of the lip-sync? Is being the 100th person to build a dessert around flexible chocolate an homage, theft, or just lack of imagination? There was a scandal a few years back, of a chef in Australia, if I recall, who essentially nicked a dish or two from every place he ever staged (Alinea, French Laundry, WD50, etc) and put them on his own menu, each one replicated right down to the exact presentation. Flattery? I'm guessing yes. Bad manners? For sure. A bit odd? Definitely.

Budding artists often copy the paintings of the old masters. Not to show off as their own, but to learn something about the intent and technique by going through the motions, replicating the tones and the brushstrokes. The interpretation/influence is then personal, filtered through their own skills and sensibilities.

Don't get me wrong, it's fun to ponder all of these analogies. But what it all boils down to is simply celebrating the craft, and the craftsman.

[monica]

This is an awesome concept, Michael. Over the past few months since completely shifting my tastes in music and exploring more indie rock and pop and international artists, I've begun to see the link between food and music. Various songs and music styles can influence the way I think, see things and interpret those thoughts and feelings, and I've noticed they definitely manifest themselves on the plate and with what ingredients I want to implore. I'm super excited to see what transpires!

[Tish]

I'm sure a lot of people do covers of greatest hits, but a lot also don't give props to the original band... Music you can easily identify the source of 'inspiration', food not so much. I look forward to reading!

[abe]

Michael is that photo on top of this post an isomalt tube...? Do you use a mould of some sort?

[Michael Laiskonis]

Abe,

Good eye. It is, though it's actually a mixture of equal parts isomalt, fondant, and glucose. We grind the cooked sugar mixture and then sift, along with soluble coffee, onto a silpat using a rectangle stencil. That is then briefly heated in the oven and wrapped around a cylinder mold while still pliable. The tubes are later filled with a mascarpone foam.

Here is another method using straight isomalt and a silicon mold from the folks at L2O in Chicago: http://bit.ly/4teljl

[Cory Barrett]

Freebird...

Sounds like a fun concept. Chefs that inspire us deserve a world of credit for their hard work, dedication, creativity, and willingness to make the "right" decisions day after day. You're one of those chefs Mr. Laiskonis, thanks for everything... whether you knew you did it or it was just a reflex.

[abe]

Yeah, I saw the ones on l2o blog but I must admit yours look better..anyway thanks for all your hard work and input in this blog..

[abe]

Would be great if you could share the recipe Micheal. I've seen different ratios of isomalt to glucose and fondant from El Bulli.

[Michael Laiskonis]

Abe,

Well, let's just say that they're different. I think each method has its advantages. We use an early formula straight from Albert, equal parts iso, fondant, and glucose. Look here for a download and a slightly different application: http://bit.ly/8GF9xg

[Michael @ Herbivoracious.com]

Soluble coffee meaning Via? I just used it in a cake the other night and was really happy with both the flavor and the solubility.

[Michael Laiskonis]

Yes, it's Via. Knowing some folks on the inside at Starbuck's has its perks.

[abe]

Oh thank you Michael...

[Michael Laiskonis]

Just got an interesting tip regarding the glucose/fondant/isomalt technique. Apparently malitol in place of the fondant will reduce sweetness even further, as well as its hygroscopic tendencies... We'll have to try that one.

[ron mendoza]

It's great to have a new post from the Workbook. It will be fun to see how your ideas transpire into the physical culinary world. Never did thank you for an amazing meal at Le Bernardin. As always, very inspiring. Thanks.

[chadzilla]

Your second paragraph echoed a lot of my recent mentality.. although I guess I never materialized the words in my head. So many resources and so little time. It's overwhelming and simultaneously motivating.
I like the 'cover tune' concept and your thoughts on it in the comment section. We could all spend countless wasted moments pondering the validity or artistic cred to every dish we do (but then we just sound like a bunch of d*uchebags)... it all takes influence from somewhere as you concluded. I've been turtling into regression lately over this. I feel up against a wall and waiting for the opening to run.
We used to cling to the 'art' word so much for the longest time, but I find myself leaning more on the 'craft' nomenclature lately. I love the idea of a craft, a mastering of concepts or ideas and physically translating them into reality (how much more productive). It removes the credit from 'me' and places it with a higher source... the animal that died, the farmer that grew the food, etc.
We did an art dinner a couple of months ago, and being around the art crowd in Miami was like eating some bad oysters. So much ego. So much unnecessary flaunting of names, places, and just 'me, me, me.' I'd much rather hang out with a bunch of craftsmen and talk about things that actually matter.

[Michael Laiskonis]

Chad,

Thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I echo your sentiments. Funny thing, at this very moment I'm happily downloading stuff from science journals and simultaneously flipping through today's haul from Kitchen Arts and Letters. And yet I'm sad because of the obvious time factors in processing it all, let alone putting any of it into practice.

I think 'craft' has begun to creep into the food culture more and more, edging out the sexy creativity, the politics, the so-called science. As chance would have it, last month I presented a talk on craft and cooking alongside noted sociologist Richard Sennett. His recent book, The Craftsman, is a good read, and although there are specific bits about cooking, I drew parallels to our world throughout the whole book.

If you look up to the right, under Further Reading, you can read the paper I submitted to that discussion, for a group here at NYU, Menus in the Media. The presentation itself dealt a lot with teaching a craft, giving instruction and the idea of a recipe, among other broad topics.

Indeed, Chad, in the end it really should be about things that actually matter!

[Peng Shekar]

Dear Michael,
I've been following your writings as your information has been crucial in my understanding of molecular gastronomy. In the Asian culture the master is greatly respected and admired for dispensing knowledge, so thank you. If you are ever in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia where food are the king, feel free to email me

[David C]

I just came across this (well, an hour or so ago) and I had to say a couple of things:

1. you are a complete bad ass. seriously.
2. this has been one of the most interesting and immersing blogs I've ever come across.

I'm 26 with next to no restaurant experience and I want to jump in and go to school and do everything but there are a lot of downers out there in the culinary world. Because of this, it's always nice to see someone that's successful and open to let people into their space. Thank you.